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Backroads & Byways of Colorado
by Drea Knufken, Countryman Press
(a division of WW Norton) ©2008

CHAPTER 3

West Elk Loop 

Estimated length: 205 miles
Estimated time: eight hours 

Getting there: From I-70, get off at the easternmost Glenwood Springs exit. Follow CO 82 to Carbondale, then follow the signs to CO 133. Start on CO 133 at Carbondale. 

This byway follows CO 133 south from the town of Carbondale to the Paonia Reservoir. Here, the byway begins a loop that eventually meets back at the reservoir. Staying on CO 133 and traveling west will take you through the town of Paonia to the town of Hotchkiss. From there, the byway meanders along CO 92 south until it joins up with CO 50, about 52 miles away. The byway then follows CO 50 for 28 miles until it reaches the town of Gunnison. From Gunnison, the byway follows CO 135 northward through the town of Almont to the town of Crested Butte. From Crested Butte, the byway travels west again over a dirt and gravel section of road for 31 miles until it joins CO 133 again at the Paonia Reservoir. 

History:

The Crystal River Valley is one of the most fertile places in Colorado. Early hunter-gatherers from the Ancients to the Ute Indians set up camp here to hunt, fish, and gather the abundant resources of the land.

      In the 1700s, two centuries after the Ute Indians had first encountered the Spanish, local tribes granted Spain the rights to trade up the Gunnison River. This was the beginning of a slow but certain change in the landscape, as increasing numbers of settlers hiked, carted, and elbowed their way into the region.

      In 1828 French-Canadian trader Antoine Robidoux built Fort Uncomphagre on the Gunnison River, in the middle of Ute Indian territory. This was one of many events that set off tensions between the Ute Indians and the white settlers. Because of distrust and atrocities committed by the settlers, the Ute Indians destroyed Fort Uncomphagre 16 years later. As more and more pioneers settled in Ute territory, first by foot, horse, and cart, then by Union Pacific Railroad, tension between the Ute Indians and settlers continued to heat up.

      On the Ute side, loyalties were split. Chief Ouray, the multilingual son of an Apache father and an Ute mother, quickly rose through the ranks to become chief of the Tabeguache Ute, who are one of the five Ute tribes in Colorado. Ouray was nicknamed the "white man's friend"--a term of endearment from some, a sharp criticism coming from others--for his good relations with white American settlers. He believed that cooperation between all the different people inhabiting the North American subcontinent was the only road to peace for his people.

      Ouray didn't have it easy. Despite friendships with President Abraham Lincoln and Kit Carson, Ouray wasn't always the most popular leader of his time, even among members of his own tribe. As Ouray tried to build compromises between his people and the white settlers, Ute Jack, another chief, was convinced that a war path was the only way to liberate his people from the encroachment of white American society.

      It was not an easy climate for Ouray to build bridges. There was inner contention among the Ute, continuing encroachment by whites, and traditional battles with other American Indian groups, such as the Arapaho. Though Ouray made alliances and fought valiantly to keep the peace between parties, a fatal event in Meeker, Colorado, led to the Ute Indians' permanent removal from their land. The 1879 Meeker Massacre resulted in 11 white American fatalities, the capture of two prominent others, and the burning of an Indian agency. Ouray, who had not been involved, immediately set out from the Gunnison Valley with his wife, Chipeta, to intercede on behalf of the white captives. Tragically, this interception did not work, and the Ute were sent to a reservation in Utah. Ouray, one of the 19th century's great peacemakers, died soon after.

      With the Ute gone, white settlers found more and more land to settle and mine in their hungry search for riches. The Grand Valley gold rush, never terribly fruitful to begin with, dried up around the end of the 19th century. After the ore had run out, many former miners opted to stay and ranch and farm the fertile Grand Valley. Thus, a smattering of small towns, each with a unique identity, established themselves in the area.

      In towns such as Gunnison, Crested Butte, and Paonia, a rich history of ranching and farming still results in a mouthwatering summer bounty of peaches, cherries, and other fruits, as well as some mighty tasty steaks. At the same time, the discoveries of oil shale and coal gave the Western Slope a new economic edge. The town of Redstone, founded by fuel tycoon John Osgood, became a home to coal miners who worked west of town. Visitors can still see rows of coke ovens, which were used to burn volatile elements off of coal, at nearby Segundo. Somerset and Carbondale were also big coal- mining towns. In Carbondale, a fatal mine explosion in 1981 killed 15 people and put a stop to nearly a century of coal mining.

      The town of Marble took a rather individualistic approach to resource extraction by becoming a national capital of marble mining in the early 1900s. The Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C., and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier contain some marble from this town.

      These days, Aspen homesteaders, urban escapees, retirees, and New-Age hippies find themselves drawn to the fascinating towns around the West Elk Loop. Some come to farm and ranch; others set up shops, cafés, and national companies, such as the Chaco Sandal Company in Paonia. Still, the old days are never far away: an increasing demand for coal in the northeastern United States has caused coal trains to run through the area at such a frequent rate that residents sometimes have to crawl under them to get to their cars in the morning.

      In sum, the area is a fascinating combination of beauty, rich history, and unique, even quirky, small towns. The grit of the mines remains a stark contrast to the fertile, mountain-flanked natural beauty of the Grand Valley--and also one of its enduring appeals.   

Geography:

From mountaintop aspen groves to cherry-blossom-filled fields, West Elk Loop covers an abundant and varied landscape as it travels through the Crystal River Valley. Not only does this make for excellent sightseeing but it opens up a nearly endless variety of recreation opportunities. There's a state park or national forest at nearly every bend. Paonia and Crawford State Parks, though smaller than their national forest relatives, offer easy spots for camping, bird watching, and picnicking. A few miles later, the route reveals three stunning national forests: White River, Grand Mesa, and Gunnison. The 2.3-million acre White River National Forest boasts first-class ski resorts like Vail and Aspen, climbing meccas like Rifle, and enough wilderness expanse in which to spend years getting lost. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado's deepest canyon, could swallow the Empire State Building. Visitors can gape down at the roaring Gunnison River from the tops of 1,000-foot canyon walls. Three dammed lakes--Blue Mesa, East Portal, and Morrow Point Reservoirs--define the Curacanti National Recreation Area, a haven for fishers, boaters, and kayakers.  Farther northeast, the Gunnison National Forest is a vast area known for its aspen-covered hiking routes, excellent hunting, and generally abundant recreational opportunities. As in all the other parks in the area, visitors can camp here. 

Mile Marker 1 (CO 133)-Carbondale

The byway begins at the eastern edge of Carbondale, with a view of Mount Sopris ahead of you and a brightly colored stack of red rocks in your rearview mirror. If you need supplies for the long trip, this is a good place to stock up--it's a decently sized town containing everything from bike shops to Laundromats.

      The town was once much smaller, as the folks at the scarecrow-decorated Carbondale Historical Society on 500 Weant Boulevard will tell you. The old jail in the museum's front yard recalls the time when Carbondale's first settlers came all the way from Pennsylvania. The name of the town they'd emigrated from? Carbondale. Nobody initially found minerals in Carbondale, so the settlers focused on growing produce, especially potatoes, for miners in nearby Aspen, which was undergoing a silver boom. The town became the only stage stop on the 40-mile run from Aspen to Glenwood Springs. It catered to travelers accordingly, and by 1906, the town was a lively rest stop with an impressive 13 saloons.

      That all changed when Idaho became a center of industrial agriculture. Potato- harvesting activity moved up north. As a result, the town's economy relied more heavily on local ranchers who supplied cattle to other towns around the Crystal River. In the mid-1800s, prospectors discovered coal in Carbondale. The high-grade coal here powered the town's economy until the late 1980s. With its high methane content, Carbondale coal was as hazardous as it was precious, and in 1991, a fatal methane gas explosion shut down the mines for good.

      Since then, Carbondale has catered to Aspen tourists and people building second homes in the Aspen area. The town nestles in the shadow of Mount Sopris, the 12,953-foot giant marking the beginning of West Elk Loop. Carbondale is known as an adventure town, with whitewater kayaking, climbing, and even skateboarding a short drive away. A pleasing bike path meanders along the byway and into town.

      Like Aspen, Carbondale offers an impressive variety of galleries, restaurants, and nightlife. Unlike Aspen, Carbondale maintains a down-to-earth attitude, and you won't find every other person wearing mink. A smattering of art galleries adds a unique flavor to the town. Mary Matchael has been running the Crystal Glass Studio since 1972. Her work includes fused-glass chandeliers, large windows with sand-blasted aspen leaf patterns, stained glass, glass wall displays, and much more. Ask the store manager for a tour of her studio, where you can see the glass furnaces, sculpting tools, and variety of paints that make the magic in Mary's work. She also did the window at the Redstone Church in downtown Redstone.

      Stock up on roadside memorabilia at Marty Garfinkel's Roadside Gallery on 320 Main Street. He's been traveling across the country by car and taking pictures for over 20 years. You'll find photos of classic cars, signs, and other artifacts of the American road, as well as an astounding selection of black-and-white motorcycle rally photos from a couple of decades ago.

      Carbondale's main street is a bustling Colorado town center with a theater, galleries, bookstores, and a variety of eateries. Grab some gourmet goods at Swiss Gourmet Fine Foods, an authentic Swiss deli that sells sandwiches, German and Swiss chocolates, meats, cheeses, and other European delicacies. The owner sells some of his goods vacuum-packed, so if you're heading on a long camping trip, you can still enjoy fresh gourmet goods.

      Like many Colorado towns, Carbondale promotes sustainability. The biggest straw-bale structure in the country is located here. It's a Waldorf school on 16543 Highway 82. People from around the country bring their kids here to get a top-tier education.

      There's not much here in the way of historical museums unless you happen to be in town on a weekend or on a weekday between 1 and 3 pm. That's when the Mount Sopris Historical Museum, a two-story log cabin filled with artifacts tracing Carbondale's history from potato farmers to cowboys, is open. They've kept a rather eclectic variety of historical finds, like an early-20th-century mercantile store ledger and letters found in the pockets of an old army uniform.

      Lodging runs the gamut from campgrounds to bed-and-breakfasts run by couples to modern chain hotels. The nearest campground is the Crystal River Resort at Mile Marker 62. The campgrounds include RV hookups, cabins, and tent spots, some of which are directly in front of the river. Familiar faces like the Comfort Inn and Days Inn are also visible. For something a little different, try the Flying Dog Ranch Retreat, a 450-acre working ranch on the outskirts of Carbondale. You can stay in an 1880s homestead cabin with easy access to outdoor activities and a tranquil pace of life.

      Just out of Carbondale, you'll enter the White River National Forest. Keep an eye on the river as you drive--this bubbling body of water has old bridges, interesting rock formations, and a variety of good places to picnic as you continue your drive. Slabs of marble will start appearing soon after the sign for White River, an indicator of things to come. The road at this point almost feels like a tranquil swim as it winds softly parallel to the river. At Mile Marker 53, you'll see Redstone's north entrance. Keep driving--a fascinating historical artifact is just a mile away. At Mile Marker 54, across from Redstone's south entrance, a long row of brick structures resembling beehives crouches in at the base of the hill. These are old coke ovens where 95 men used to load, coke, rake, and ship coal to John Osgood's steel mill in Pueblo. These men all lived across the river in Redstone. 

Mile Marker 54 (CO 133)-Redstone

In the early 1900s, John Osgood, a wealthy coal baron, gazed upon the expanse of cliff-sheltered land that would eventually become Redstone. He decided that it was the perfect location to build a utopian community. For Osgood, that meant commissioning chalet-style homes and the 22-acre Redstone Inn for coal miners working at the nearby Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. If the miners had it good, Osgood had it even better--he owned and lived in the Cleveland Manor, a 42-room Tudor mansion, constructed for himself at the edge of town. 

      The first building you'll notice as you drive into town is the Redstone Inn. As a National Historic Trust Historic Hotel of America, the inn wafts with history. Old pictures complement original furniture to transport visitors back in time. It's worth a walk-through even if you're not staying. If you do choose to stay overnight, a four-star resort with a pool, hot tub, tennis court, and private fishing lake awaits. Consider a dress-up dinner at the Historic Dining Room and Veranda, a locally renowned restaurant.

      Swing a left onto Main Street and discover the quaint, peaceful beauty of the town's main street. Redstone is a National Historic District with an enchanting main street that makes visitors drift into another time. Antique stores, a country store, galleries, restaurants, and a smattering of accommodations make an enchanting walk for fans of history and Victorian architecture. The tiny Redstone Museum provides more details on Osgood's utopia, while Bruno Moegli's riverside marble sculpture garden on 363 Redstone Boulevard lures viewers into an artistic interpretation of nature in its full glory. Tiffany of Redstone, identifiable by the three metal stars on the south side of its wall, sells antiques and collectibles, including a variety of Tiffany lamps.

      Other options for overnighting include the River House Lodge, which offers fully equipped riverfront suites, or the Redstone Campground, with RV and tent camping and hot showers. As you leave Redstone and make your way towards Marble, make a photo stop at Hayes Creek Falls. Located at Mile Marker 50, these medium-sized falls offer a taste of the majestic natural beauty to come on the loop. There's also an option to take a steep hike farther up the falls. You'll notice that the road gradually begins its climb toward Mount Sopris here. The first aspen groves come into sight on the roadside, and more peaks become visible around Sopris. 

Mile Marker 47 (CO 133)--Marble

At Mile Marker 47, swing a right and head 5 miles out to the hamlet of Marble. This intersection is roughly the same place at which Crystal River prospectors fastidiously searched for gold and silver for 20 years--until they found huge marble deposits just 5 miles away. You'll know you're in the town when the road turns to gravel. Notice the thin air here: the town is located at roughly 8,000 feet. Two towering mountains come into plain view here: the Fourteener on the left is North Maroon Peak; the one to its right is Maroon Peak. These are arguably the two most photographed mountains in Colorado.

      Relatively sleepy Marble lives up to its name. Not much is visible here, though several inns and campgrounds hide in the aspens along the main road. The town's claim to fame is its marble mining. Its Yule Marble Quarry and Crystal Mill produced pieces of fine marble used in the Lincoln Memorial in 1916 and a 100-ton slab used in the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The folks at the Marble Historical Society Museum, which is usually open in the summer months, will be happy to tell you a detailed history of this quarry town.

      Visitors can tour the Yule Marble Quarry finishing mill in downtown Marble at the Millsite Park. This is the park where quarrymen used to mine and process the marble. Exploring Marble Mill Park is a dramatic experience. This formerly active industrial site now more closely resembles a Mayan ruin than a working mill, with marble towers and old workshops jutting out from a foundation containing rusted sheets of metal and overgrown with leafy, twisting plants. The park is filled with the ruins of components of the Colorado Yule Marble Company, which was founded in 1905. Massive marble slabs stand in chunky stacks to the west, each with its weight (often in the neighborhood of 50,000 pounds) and destination scrawled on it in blue spray paint. It takes some imagination to picture what once was from these haphazard remnants: an avalanche retaining wall 70 feet tall made of marble, used to protect the mill building from snowslides; gang saws for cutting marble blocks; marble firewalls built after an early small fire threatened the building; a mill for hand finishing and carving; an overhead crane for lifting marble; a shop for rubbing beds, where sand was rubbed on marbles; a diamond drill; and more. A map at the entrance explains each structure, though now they're much harder to recognize.

 Hiking, horseback, and in winter, Nordic skiing and snowshoeing trails run from town up into the Maroon Bells/Snowmass and the Raggeds Wilderness areas. The town's quiet charm draws visitors looking for a more historic and relaxed experience. Car camping opportunities are plentiful in the Marble area. RVs are welcome at Bogan Flats Campground along County Road (CR) 3 about midway between CO 133 and the town of Marble. The Ute Meadows Inn on 2880 County Road offers fishing right out the door for those who prefer not to spend the night in a tent.

      From Marble, you'll climb higher and higher through aspen groves and up toward noble-looking mountains. The river becomes a silver snake miles below as you reach the 8,775-foot summit of McClure Pass. Take the turn off just to the left of the mcclure pass sign for an up-close and personal aspen grove experience. If you're a true nature lover, camp here for up to 14 days. In the fall, this is prime aspen-viewing territory. 

Mile Marker 19 (CO 133)--Somerset

Somerset is one of the most prominent coal-mining towns in Crystal Valley. A train comes through the center of town several times a day to collect coal for a number of power plants in the west. Workers still commute daily from nearby towns such as Paonia and Hotchkiss. The coal mine truly defines the town; there aren't any tourist amenities here, save for the town restaurant.

      Just before Mile Marker 28, you'll see a sign for Paonia State Park and, shortly after that, Paonia Reservoir. These two areas comprise yet another North Fork recreation paradise offering boating, fishing, camping, waterskiing, and picnicking.  

Mile Marker 10 (CO 133)--Paonia

Home to some of the best peaches in the state, Paonia is a small, homey agricultural and coal- mining town in the fertile North Fork Valley of the Gunnison. Ute Indians inhabited the area until 1880, when the infamous Meeker Massacre prompted the government to force them onto reservations. White settlers built up the town soon afterwards, naming it Paonia after the many peony flowers in the area.

      Though many residents are employed at coal mines in nearby Somerset, Paonia's main claim to fame is its agricultural bounty. Cherries, peaches, and apples are abundant here in summer. The region also produces some of Colorado's finest wines, with clarets that are gaining national renown.

      Besides attending farmers' markets here in summer, visitors can hike, bike, and walk the town, which is currently an eclectic mixture of farmers, ranchers, miners, retirees, and hippies. The town is politically progressive and proud of its dearth of stoplights and fast-food restaurants. It's the home to the Chaco sandal factory, which produces the footwear that a notable proportion of the state's population lives in during the summer, and the High Country News, a well-known nonprofit publication covering culture and sustainability in the West. Paonia is also home to several summer festivals, among them Cherry Days, an annual BMW rally, and Dreamtime, a New-Age sustainable- culture festival with live music, workshops, and art exhibitions that takes place during mid-July of every year.

      For excellent burritos, settle into a booth at Fiesta Vallarta on Grand and Third. They serve a variety of Mexican beers and margaritas to complement the tasty food. The Diner, located just down the street, offers a classic small-town dining experience, with vintage movie posters. Breakfast is all-American fare like malts, milkshakes, and burgers.

      There's camping at the nearby Paonia Reservoir and Paonia State Park. For those who want to stay a couple days in this slow-paced town. The Bross Hotel Bed and Breakfast is located in a refurbished early-1900s building downtown.  

Mile Marker 2 (CO 133)--Hotchkiss

A few vineyard-filled miles south of Paonia lies Hotchkiss. One of its claims to fame is its fish hatchery, located 2 miles past town on 3100 Road to Lazear. Colorado's rivers, lakes, and streams are often so full of sporting fish that anglers can stand just feet away from each other and still catch enough trout for dinner. Many of these fish are hatched not in the wild but at the Hotchkiss National Fish Hatchery 3 miles south of town.

      The hatchery is a good education destination for families or those interested in the environment. There's a display explaining how they hatch fish, why they raise trout here, how they raise the trout, trout health, and more. One of two state fish hatcheries (the other is located in Leadville), the Hotchkiss hatchery stocks more than 70 different locations in Colorado and New Mexico. Visitor tours explaining the processes of hatching and stocking are offered seven days a week.

      Apart from the hatchery, the town itself has many familiar amenities, including motels, coffee shops, cowboy collectibles shops, and antique stores. The Creamery Arts Center is a community arts center with galleries displaying work of more than 100 artists. The Hotchkiss-Crawford Historical Society Museum, open on afternoons only from Friday through Sunday, offers a flavor of the Old Western side of the town, with a chuck wagon, saddles, and antique clothes worn by the first settlers in the North Fork Valley.

      The Leroux Creek Inn on 3100 Road is a 47-acre adobe retreat catering to those who want to enjoy the bountiful countryside here. The town, small as it is with its 1,000-person population, also boasts seven restaurants to grab a meal at. The North Fork Valley Restaurant on Main Street hosts live bands on the weekends and is a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. Try their Navajo tacos. 

Mile Marker 63 (CO 92)--Crawford

As the loop heads out of Paonia, it gets more rural and bucolic. You'll start seeing a lot of cows, tractors, and big pickup trucks. The last of the dramatic mountains from McClure Pass flatten out. The landscape folds into rolling, grassy hills not unlike parts of the Midwest. As you approach the town of Crawford, chances are you'll see more than a few real-live cowboys. Home to spur-wearing ranchers, cattle drives still take place through the middle of town. Nestled near sheer canyons, wide mesas, and unexpected rock outcroppings, this cowboy town is a good place to take it easy and watch life roll, walk, and gallop by.

      This slow pace of life has attracted many artists, among them musician Joe Cocker, who lives here permanently. You'll find trinkets at Todd's Treasures, the town's antique store, as well as at the Crawford Country Store on 313 CO 92, the town's general store. The Bee Yard Gardens on 711 CO 92 is a huge, comprehensive nursery at the beginning of town. The North Rim Glass Studio on 191 CO 92 shapes world-renowned pieces and has an extensive gift store. If you get hungry here, grab a rancher-sized steak at the Branding Iron restaurant, also located on the main street through town. If you're here in July, hit the Render the Rock festival at stunning Needle Rock, where artists gather to draw, paint, and sculpt Needle Rock in every imaginable medium.

      One mile south of town lies Crawford State Park and Lake. The lake is a serene, spacious fishing lake popular among locals. Nearby Crawford State Park contains a couple of reservoirs with lots of fishing, a water ski beach, accessible walking paths, and a couple of campgrounds. Both are good for RVs and leisurely fishing vacations. Clear Fork and Iron Creek Campgrounds contain fire pits, and tent and RV camping, and sit on a wide open space looking out on the lake. The lake offers boating, jet-skiing, fishing, kayaking, and more.  

Mile Marker 59 (CO 92)--Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 

North Rim:

Fourteen miles of sheer 1,000-foot cliff walls define this national park, which squares off a section of a 53-mile-long gorge. The fish-filled Gunnison looks like a narrow stream as it roars below, carving ever deeper into the canyons that it started forming millennia ago. The Painted Wall, Colorado's highest cliff, stands an impressive 2,250 feet high--1,000 feet higher than the Empire State Building.

      The steep walls of the canyon range in depth from 1,750 to 2,700 feet. The Gunnison River's steep gradient, with an average fall of 95 feet per mile, cut the deep, narrow grooves that formed the canyon. The Gunnison River flows at 12,000 cubic feet per second--that's 2.75-million horsepower--not bad for a river.

      Visitors will find juniper, pinion, and scrub oak forests to hike through at the rim. Those brave enough to venture to the gorge will find a vastly different riparian ecosystem, complete with 5-foot-high poison ivy. It's a good idea to cover your limbs while exploring the vast canyon. Mule deer and a variety of birds, including peregrine falcons and golden eagles nesting on cliff ledges, are the most bountiful animal sightings here. Note that the bottom of the gorge is a wilderness area. Permits are required to enter that area, and Leave No Trace ethics should be followed. Water, backcountry, and climbing permits are available at the ranger's station. The campground at the more remote North Rim is first-come, first-served car camping and not RV compatible.  

South Rim:

Note that there's no bridge between the remote North Rim and the much more accessible South Rim. To get from the North Rim to the South Rim takes around two to three hours of driving, either along the byway through the Curecanti National Recreation Area, or back through Hotchkiss and past the relatively sizeable town of Montrose. You can camp both at the North and South Rims; the North Rim has more primitive facilities and is closed in winter. If you prefer to overnight in a hotel, Montrose has several chain options like the Comfort Inn. The campsite at the South Rim has handicapped accessibility and is RV compatible.  

      Stop by the visitor center at the South Rim to learn more about recreation opportunities, which include camping, hiking (both on trails and, for the more adventurous, into the wilderness of the inner canyon), fishing, rafting, advanced climbing, horseback riding, and more. A scenic drive around the South Rim is the best way to get an overview of the park.

      If you do a good job driving the South Rim, you'll cover all 12 of the canyon's viewpoints, located between the park entrance and the end of the road at High Point. It's a slow and view-saturated 6- mile drive. You'll see astounding finlike rock formations in the canyon. These towers are known as pegmatite dikes. Their namesake is a type of rock that erodes much more slowly than other rocks. Thus, the rocks around the pegmatite erode, while the pegmatite remains standing in the form of a narrow stack. You can also drive down to the river from the South Rim, a steep, brake-burning descent that ends at Crystal Dam, a reservoir capable of releasing 42,000 cubic feet of water per second. Anglers will find Gold Medal Waters here.  

Mile Marker 1 (CO 92)--Curecanti National Recreation Area

Close to the South Rim lies Cimmaron Lake. If you take a slight detour to nearby Cimarron, you can see Locomotive Number 278, which stands atop the last remaining trestle on the Gunnison Railroad route.

      Southeast of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies the Curecanti National Recreation Area. This fishing and outdoor mecca is defined by three stunning lakes: Blue Mesa Lake to the east, Morrow Point Lake in the middle, and Crystal Lake on the western edge. Each lake is separated by a dam along the Gunnison River.

      Blue Mesa Reservoir floats into view soon after Cimmaron. At 20 miles long and with 96 miles of shoreline, the Blue Mesa Reservoir is the largest body of water in Colorado. It has two marinas, numerous boat launch sites, and abundant camping. Several hikes round out the experience here. The easiest is Neversink, a 1.5-mile round trip that's fully accessible. The hardest hike is from the stunning viewpoint at Hermit's Rest. That hike is 6 miles round-trip, and gains more than 1,000 feet of elevation. Visitors can fish for rainbow, brook, brown, and lake trout, as well as Kokanee salmon.

 Look up from the parking lot of Blue Mesa Reservoir and you'll see dramatic brown rock outcroppings. These are the Dillon Pinnacles, formed by volcanic ash and debris over an extended period of time. Heading back to the North Rim, the road that follows is utterly hypnotic. Aspen and pine groves make for a verdant green blanket across the Gunnison Gorge, while the rugged San Juans rise dramatically in the background. The aspens turn golden in the fall, adding a dizzying element of color. The tallest peak to the south is Uncompahgre Peak. At 14,309 feet, it's the sixth tallest in Colorado.

      At Mile Marker 55, the trail/overlook at Hermit's Rest is a don't-miss. More than a thousand feet below, the reservoir looks more like a fjord. Steadfast hikers can take the 1.5-mile trip down to the old boat-docking area (which no longer contains a dock, but canoers do occasionally moor here), then brave the sweaty three-hour climb back up. You can also camp on the shore.   

Mile Marker 160 (US 50)--Gunnison

Continue along US 50 and, to the north, you'll see the vast expanse of national forest that encompasses the Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, and Gunnison National Forests (known affectionately as GMUG by some rangers). You'll also enter Gunnison, a town rich in Old West history. The town of Gunnison, like the national forest and river, is named after John W. Gunnison, a mid-1800s U.S. Army surveyor on an expedition to find a suitable Rocky Mountain pass for the Transcontinental Railroad. The town's location along the railroad helped it thrive as a regional supply center for cattle in the 1800s. For a while, the town was doing so well that planners were convinced it would eventually become the capital of Colorado. They built the town's streets wide to accommodate for what they saw as an inevitable and dramatic population boom. The boom never happened. The town remains small to this day, and the streets disproportionately wide.

      Gunnison boasts some other historical tidbits. The mountain with the "W" on it (for Western State College) has some 8,000-year-old paleolithic remains inside of it, which archaeologists are still digging up. Before the white settlers came, Native Americans lived in the area. Many of their ancient remains are still buried in the mountain.

      Brothers Wyatt and Warren Earp camped on the outskirts of Gunnison after they left Tombstone in 1882. Several years later, Wyatt returned to Gunnison with Josie Marcus, his companion, and settled there. The town also escaped the Spanish influenza pandemic that killed hundreds of others in the area in 1918 by barricading all highways near county lines. Train passengers were warned that, if they exited the train in Gunnison, they'd be arrested and quarantined for five days. The barricades and threats worked: As a result, nobody in Gunnison died of influenza during the epidemic.

      Yet another of Gunnison's claims to fame is climatic: Because of its location at the bottom of several valleys, the town averages -7 degrees Fahrenheit in January, making it one of the coldest winter climates in the nation. Gunnison's predominant role is as a gateway ski town to Crested Butte's famously utopian terrain. The variety of accommodations, especially medium-sized hotels and motels, reflects this. Outside of the frigid winter months, Gunnison is a bustling tourist town full of shops, eateries, and friendly locals. Western State College, the first college on the Western Slope, lends a youthful spunk to the town, with all the cafes, pubs, and vintage stores typical of a college town, while its cowboy history lends an arid, Western feel to the place. You can also rent your transportation here, be it a car, a snowmobile, a bike, a plane, or anything in between.

      In the summer, Gunnison is a hunter's paradise. Several outfitters, such as the Lazy F Bar Ranch, offer big-game hunting retreats. Seasons include bear, elk, and mule deer, which Gunnison is historically famous for. Elk and deer seasons generally run from August through September; black bear season is in September. Archers and rifle hunters especially will find many opportunities here. Hunting licenses are required.

      Other nearby recreation opportunities include road and mountain biking, hiking, fishing, kayaking, and four-wheeling. Hartman Rocks, with ancient rock formations that some scientists say were formed by a meteor more than 300 million years ago has an extensive trail system renowned for its dirt sports. Hikers, mountain bikers, and off-road motorcyclists will find days of exploration here.

      History buffs will savor the sizable Pioneer Museum on the east side of town on 803 East Tomichi Avenue. The museum houses 12 buildings, including Gunnison's first post office, the Denver and Rio Grande Narrow Gauge Railroad (lifted from its now-defunct tracks through the Alpine Tunnel of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison), and an early 1900s rural schoolhouse. Additional exhibits include antique wagons and cars, a fully equipped dairy barn, arrowhead collections, and more.

      For hotel accommodations at relatively reasonable rates, try the Water Wheel Inn, located 2 miles west of town on US 50. Owner Dr. Jim can tell you all about local bike- riding opportunities. Katie's Cookery offers specialty sandwiches and homemade soups on South Main. Try the fully loaded bratwurst. Gunnison is also a good place to shop. You'll find furniture, antiques, outdoor gear, jewelry, bikes, skis, DVDs, and almost anything else under the sun right on Main Street.   

Mile Marker 26 (CO 135)--Crested Butte

Crested Butte started out as a vacation spot for the Ute Indians, and, after a stint as a mining town, came almost full circle to become one of Colorado's favorite ski resorts. In the mid-1800s, white settlers began displacing the Ute Indians, who used Crested Butte as a summer residence. Settlers soon discovered silver and coal in the area; as a result, the town's charming Victorian Old Town was built, as were several mining towns in surrounding areas, many of which are now ghost towns.

      Because Crested Butte also had a handful of ranches and acted as a supply town to neighboring regions, it narrowly survived the ensuing silver bust and closure of its coal mines. The town stayed in stealth mode until the mid-1960s, when Mount Crested Butte, the town's ski area, opened. Tourists flooded in, reviving the town's economy and laying the groundwork for the festive, outdoorsy town it is today. The quaint downtown also offers galleries, salons, trinket shops, bike shops, and more.

      Crested Butte is now known as a skiing and mountain-biking mecca. It's home to Colorado's Mountain Bike Hall of Fame as well as the annual Fat Tire Bike Week, a mountain-biking celebration and ride held in late June of every year. Aside from mountain biking, the town has a festival almost every month, with the Wildflower Festival also notable among them.

      For a taste of heritage, check out the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum on 331 Elk Avenue. The museum chronicles the history of Crested Butte from its inception as a mining town to its present status as an outdoor tourists' Eden. Visitors will find a variety of exhibits, including black-and-white mid-1800s portraits of famous visitors, the Crested Butte Mountain Resort's first gondola, merchandise originally sold in the Crested Butte hardware store (where the museum is now), a life-sized mining diorama, and more. The museum also houses the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame. Opened in 1988, the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame displays vintage bikes and components, old photos, press clippings from historic races, and a slew of additional memorabilia.

      As in most ski towns, dining and lodging options abound. Quaint downtown B&Bs add flavor to the clusters of slope-side resorts and condominiums up the hill on Mt. Crested Butte. You won't find the spunk of Crested Butte proper at the Mount Crested Butte resort town, but you will find the basic amenities present in most North American ski towns: liquor stores, restaurants, and a slew of hotels and condos. The Crested Butte Retreat on Mount Crested Butte is a true standout among the many lodging options on the mountain. This classy and lavish high-end Colorado mountain lodge offers tasteful rooms, a spa, and the kind of resort lodging that makes you linger in your room long after the lifts open.

      For a personal touch, try the Elizabeth Anne Bed and Breakfast on 703 Maroon Avenue, run by Denise and Kevin Reinert. Each of their rooms is individually decorated, and the breakfasts, which often include scrumptious items like stuffed French toast and omelettes, are enough to fuel you for a decently sized mountain-bike ride or backcountry ski adventure. 

      Budget travelers might try the Crested Butte International Lodge and Hostel on 615 Teocalli Avenue, which has private rooms as well as bunk beds. Clean, comfortable, and with space to cook in, it offers a kind of communal group experience. The hostel is set up with a lounge and communal kitchen typical of all hostels. It's very clean, charges $5 for a shower, has key-carded doors, and is spacious enough to almost feel like a hotel.

      Looks-wise, there's a stun factor in Crested Butte that is hard to pinpoint at first. The town's beauty isn't overwhelming so much as it is numbing. The town is surrounded by mountain landmarks so unique that each could be separated out into its own landmark and still take your breath away. In addition to nearly 360-degree mountain views, the town is complemented by its towering scenery rather than encapsulated by it. It's the stuff of Colorado tourism posters.

      Another noteworthy aspect of this town is its truly cosmopolitan dining. You can find good eats here, from sushi that's flown in from Hawaii every day to savory Italian. Be sure to make reservations before you dine out anywhere in this town. For breakfast, try the unbeatable stuffed blueberry pancakes at McGill's on 228 Elk Avenue. The Ginger Cafe on 313 Third Street offers divine Thai and Indian food cooked up by skilled chefs from, strangely enough, Omaha, Nebraska. The fresh Thai spring rolls and ginger creme brulée are to die for. Marchitelli's Gourmet Noodle o n 411 Third Street serves quality Italian foods, complemented by a sizeable selection of wines. Don't dine there without sampling a salad with the homemade balsamic vinaigrette. For wi-fi access, good shots, and an independent cafe ambiance, head to the Buckaroo Beanery right next to the Phillips 66 gas station.

      Crested Butte is a classic Colorado small town. Almost every building boasts a fresh coat of paint and a tin roof; town regulations prohibit the garish plastic or neon signs you might see in larger cities, giving the town a clean, artistic feel. Most townsfolk ride around on "townies," or refurbished 1970s-style cruiser bikes. Old buildings aren't demolished here; rather, they're refurbished and sometimes repurposed. For example, the building behind Elizabeth Anne Bed and Breakfast used to be a mule barn. Now, it's a condo building.

      For mountain bikers, the singletracks here are legendary. Rent a new-model bike at Big Al's and get a taste for local trails by heading up Maroon Avenue to The Woods, then hitting the Upper and Lower Loops, which are only mildly technical and filled with flowers in summertime. Another alternative is Tony's ride on the west side of town. For something longer, try the 401 ride, a Crested Butte half-day classic that boasts waist-high wildflowers.

      Day trips abound from Crested Butte. One popular day trip is up the mountain to Gothic, a former ghost town that now has a biological research station where people research everything from insects to aspen/woodland ecosystems.  

Mile Marker 31 (past Crested Butte)--Kebler Pass

The last portion of the West Elk journey is Kebler Pass, known by many to be one of the most astounding places in the country to see the aspens turn gold in fall. The aspen grove here, which stretches into Aspen and Carbondale, is the largest in Colorado. Needless to say, when the aspens turn color on Kebler Pass, it's a powerful experience. This unpaved road, if followed to its terminus, ends up at the Paonia Reservoir and is considered a scenic back-way of getting from Crested Butte to the Paonia area.

      The pass starts around Mile Marker 31. The road soon goes to gravel, but it's smooth enough for even big RVs to pass through. Various hiking trails and campgrounds pepper the way to the summit: Splain's Gulch is located at Mile Marker 27. Shortly thereafter, a dirt road leads to Lake Irwin, a cold lake full of fish and reflecting high mountain peaks. Other hiking trails include Dark Canyon, Cliff Creek, and Lost Lake.

      Driving through the aspen grove at around 10,000 feet is humbling. Initially, its silence is reminiscent of a cathedral of sorts; however, if you sit for a while, you'll find it teeming with life. Field mice and insects skirt the thick leaf cover on the ground while birds converse overhead; when winds rustle through, the aspen tops sway in circular waves. The sheer volume of aspen trees here is enough to make a person forget to blink. 

      The aspen grove stretches for miles through a gradual ascent and descent. Eventually, the aspens give way to pine and other trees. The road or, as many would have it, the journey ends with a couple of ranches and a good view of the dam at Paonia Reservoir. The majestic drive through Kebler Pass is the ideal culmination to your scenic drive through the Western Slope. This drive is sure to leave you with memories--if not hundreds of photographs--of some of Colorado's most beautiful landscapes.  

Listings

Galleries:

Church at Redstone, 0123 Redstone Boulevard, Redstone, 81623. 

Creamery Arts Center, 165 W. Bridge Street, Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-4848. Web site: www.northforkarts.org 

Crystal Glass Studio, 50 Weant Boulevard, Carbondale, 81623. Call 970-963-3227.

Web site: www.crystalglassstudio.com 

North Rim Glass Studio, 191 Highway 92, Crawford, 81415. Call 970-921-4527.  

Roadside Gallery, 320 Main Street, Carbondale, 81623. Call 970-963-9333. Web site: www.roadsidegallery.com 

Tiffany of Redstone, 225 Redstone Boulevard, Redstone, 81623. Call 970-963-1769. Web site: www.tiffanyofredstone.com 

Wildflower Creations (home of Redstone's marble sculpture garden), 363 Redstone Boulevard, Redstone, 81623. Call 970-704-9015. 
 

Museums:

Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame, 331 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-1880. Web site: www.crestedbuttemuseum.com 

Hotchkiss-Crawford Historical Society, corner of Second Street and Hotchkiss Avenue,

Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-3780. 

Marble Historical Society (shares a building with Marble Charter School), 412 W. Main Street, Marble, 81632. Web site: www.marblecolorado.net/museum 

Mt. Sopris Historical Society in Carbondale, 499 Weant Boulevard, Carbondale, 81632. Call 970-963-7041. Web site: www.mtsoprishistoricalsociety.org 
 

Dining/Drinks:

Branding Iron Steak House, 356 Highway 92, Crawford, 81415. Call 970-921-4386. 

Buckaroo Beanery Coffee House, 601 Sixth Street, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-5252. 

The Diner, 203 Grand Avenue, Paonia, 81428. Call 970-527-4773. 

Fiesta Vallarta, 240 Grand Avenue, Paonia, 91428. Call 970-527-4187. 

Ginger Café, 313 Third Street, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-7291. 

Katie's Cookery Lunch and Dinner, 112 S. Main Street, Gunnison, 81230. Call 970-641-1958. 

Marchitelli's Gourmet Noodle, 411 Third Street, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-7401. 

McGill's, 228 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-5240. 

North Fork Valley Restaurant, 140 W. Bridge Street, Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-4215.  

Entertainment:

Crested Butte Mountain Theatre, 403 Second Street, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-0366. 

Recreation and National Parks:

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, National Park Service, 102 Elk Creek,

Gunnison, 81230. Call 970-641-2337. To access the South Rim, drive 15 miles east of Montrose via US 50 and CO 347. To access the North Rim, drive 11 miles south of Crawford, via CO 92 and North Rim Road (unpaved). Fees: $15 per vehicle.  

Crawford State Park, 1 mile south of Crawford, P.O. Box 147, Crawford, 81415. Call

970-921-5721. Web site: parks.state.co.us/parks/crawford 

Crested Butte Mountain Resort, 12 Snowmass Road, Mt. Crested Butte, 81225. Call 800-810-7669 or 970-349-2222. Summer hiking and mountain biking (can use ski lifts), winter skiing. 

Crystal River Resort, 7202 CO 133, Carbondale, 81632. Web site: www.cabinscolorado.com 

Curecanti National Recreation Area, National Park Service, 102 Elk Creek, Gunnison, 81230. Call 970-641-2337. Web site: www.nps.gov/cure 

Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, and Gunnison National Forests, 2250 Highway 50, Delta, 81416. Call 970-874-6600. Web site: www.fs.fed.us/r2/gmug 

Hotchkiss National Fish Hatchery, 8342 Hatchery Road, Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-3170. Web site: www.fws.gov/hotchkiss 

Hotchkiss National Fish Hatchery, 807-3150 Lane, Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-3170. 

Paonia State Park, P.O. Box 147, Crawford, 81415. Call 970-921-5721. Web site: parks.state.co.us/parks/paonia 

White River National Forest (USDA Forest Service), 900 Grand Avenue, P.O. Box 948, Glenwood Springs, 81602. Call 970-945-2521. Web site: www.fs.fed.us/r2/whiteriver 
 

Accommodations:

Ambiance Inn Bed and Breakfast, 66 N. Second Street, Carbondale, 81623. Call 970-963-3597. Web site: www.ambianceinn.com 

Bogan Flats Campground, 1.5 miles down Gunnison CR 3, near Marble. Call 800-280-2267. 

Bross Hotel Bed and Breakfast, 312 Onarga Avenue, Paonia. Call 970-527-6776. Web site: www.paonia-inn.com 

Crested Butte International Lodge and Hostel, 615 Teocalli Avenue, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 888-389-0588. Web site: www.crestedbuttehostel.com 

Crested Butte Retreat, 39 Whetstone Road, Crested Butte, 81225. Call 970-349-1658. Web site: www.crestedbutteretreat.com 

Elizabeth Anne Bed and Breakfast, 703 Maroon Avenue, P.O. Box 3150, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 888-745-4620. Web site: www.crested-butte-inn.com

Flying Dog Ranch Retreat, 1625 CR 111, Carbondale, 81623. Call 877-935-9364. Web site: www.flyingdogranch.com 

Lazy F Bar Ranch, P.O. Box 383, Gunnison, 81230. Call 970-641-3313. Web site: www.lazyfbarranch.com 

Leroux Creek Inn, 12388 3100 Road, Hotchkiss, 81419. Call 970-872-4746. Web site: www.lerouxcreekinn.com 

Redstone Campground, 1 mile south of Redstone. Call: 970-945-2521. 

Redstone Inn, 82 Redstone Boulevard, Redstone, 81623. Call 970- 963-2526. 

River House Lodge, 385 Redstone Boulevard, Redstone, 81623. Call 877-963-2701. Web site: www.alpine-riverlodging.com 

Ute Meadows Inn, 2880 County Road, Marble, 81623. Call 888-883-6323.

www.utemeadows.com 

The Water Wheel Inn, P.O. Box 882, Gunnison, 81230. Call 800-642-1650. 

<<803 E. Tomichi Avenue, Gunnison, 81230. Call 970-641-4530.>> 
 

Shopping:

Bee Yard Gardens, 711 Highway 92, Crawford, 81415. Call 970-921-4335.  

Big Al's Bicycle Heaven, 329 Belleview Avenue, Suite A, Crested Butte, 81224. Call 970-349-0515. 

Crawford Country Store, 313 Highway 92, Crawford, 81415. Call 970-921-5061. 

Novel Tea Books, 449 Main Street, Carbondale, 81623. Call 970-963-2617. 

Swiss Gourmet Fine Foods, 335 Main Street, Carbondale, 81623. Call 970-963-0803. Web site: swissgourmet.org